kx59 put up a great summary, so I don't have to, other than to offer many thanks to the South Texas Gunblogger Community Organizer, Southern Belle.
I did learn a couple things. First, factory reloads can be "cool" loads (loaded with less propellant). Not really a problem there - it makes the ammunition a bit less expensive and it makes the round a little slower. I guess that it's possible that some ranges like that, although it probably doesn't make enough difference to tell.
However, your gun might care. Less propellant means less energy, which means that the recoil spring will compress less than it would on a hotter load. My 1911 had been having intermittent problems where the slide didn't return to battery (the firing position). It would once in a while stop about a quarter inch from where it would in a full cycle. Pull the trigger, no bang.
I'd been shooting reloads from a local Texas company that had been recommended. Back in Atlanta, I had short some reloads from Atlanta Arms, which is what the range stocked.
I was thinking that I'd need a gunsmith to look at it. But I picked up a couple boxes of white box, and it worked flawlessly. The white box rounds are hotter.
I guess I'll feed the 1911 factory new ammo from now on.
The second thing I learned yesterday is that shooting slings are like corsets: they both work only when they're good and tight. I kept tightening the sling every time I took a run with the Enfield, and think that I probably need to tighten it a bit more. But man, it sure improves your groups.
7 comments:
You have recognized the symptoms correctly. I might take issue with your conclusion.
Yes, light loads, case crimp, bullet shape and weight, etc. can impact reliability. But this is not a reason not to shoot reloads. It is a reason to be selective about them. The quality of the ammo, in myriad ways, impacts accuracy as well. But resolving as many of those issues as possible can give you an accurate, reliable reload at 25% to 50% of the cost of new ammo.
You will save nothing, you'll just shoot more, but that's a good thing. You'll also learn a lot in the process. The first step is to stop shooting someone else's reloads and start shooting your own.
What ASM said. I start at the recommended minimum load on the books and see if that is acceptable for the pistol in question. I also chronograph to see if my FPS comes anywhere close to the books. I then tweak from there.
Many companies make reduced weight or heavier recoil springs to allow you to tune further, but I have not done so as my "target" guns are also for the most part "defense" guns.
The sling is one of the keys to accuracy with a rifle.
When (if) you ever have a weekend free, you should go to an Appleseed course. You'll learn a lot about rifle shooting.
BP thanks for the ride much shooty fun was had.
TOT... going to the Appleseed course was discused, but I think it's scheduled gor after he learns to drive a tank.
:-)
Josh
On a similar but unrelated subject,
I've noticed that many older .22 automatics, will not feed correctly with the newer hotter brands of .22 ammo. Example: Federal Champion, 40 gr. .22 ammo will work fawlessly in and old Glenfield .22 auto my dad left me. Whereas Winchester Epediter , .29 gr. .22 ammo, will jam every to or three rounds, likewise CCI mini-mags.
Excellent idea!!!
Can I have your brass???
YeOldFurt
I've noticed the same thing with some local reloads. More on this tomorrow - thanks for the inspiration!
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